The Science Behind It

PROPORTIONS

First, we measure each diamond to make certain that it is cut to the ideal proportions needed to look its carat weight and possess exceptional life. Proportions represent an essential starting point for a diamond to become an Original Radiant Cut.

Renowned for his expertise as a craftsman, the proportion standards developed by Henry Grossbard go well beyond the information contained in the grading reports from major gem labs. Our measurements were developed specifically for the radiant cut, and fully account for the differences between a round vs. rectangular shape. Refer to measuring proportions correctly section below.

Our adjustments for differences in length and width are part of the equation that makes each of our diamonds explode with fire. In addition, our "visible surface area" measurement guarantees that every single Original Radiant Cut Diamond appears its proper size or "spreads its carat weight. Refer to proper carat weight spread section below. Only an Original Radiant Cut can provide you with this level of comfort.

Still, because properly cutting a radiant cut is part art, part science, each diamond must also pass a series of visual examinations before it officially becomes an Original Radiant Cut Diamond. A radiant that fails to both meet our ideal proportions standards and pass our visual examination cannot qualify as an Original Radiant Cut. Refer to Ideal Measurements section below.

MEASURING PROPORTIONS CORRECTLY

Adjusting for Shape: Only the Original Radiant Cut correctly accounts for the varying length and width of the rectangular shape to maximize the beauty of each diamond.

In general, a well-made diamond of any shape must have the correct overall depth relative to the size of the diamond or surface area. This measurement is referred to as the "depth percentage." The depth percentage must also be properly distributed between the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) of the diamond. These measurements are referred to as "crown height" and "pavilion depth."

With round diamonds, the surface area is determined by the diameter of the circle. This makes sense, since all circles with the same diameter have the same surface area. Gem labs such as the GIA apply the same technique to rectangular diamonds by substituting the width of the rectangle for the diameter of a circle.

This system of measuring rectangular shapes creates problems because rectangles with the same width can have different surface areas due to differences in length. This means two rectangular diamonds may need very different depths to maximize the beauty of each diamond. Recognizing this issue, the Original Radiant Cut is measured to account for the differences in length and width. This gives every one of our diamonds the correct depth percentage for its overall dimensions, instilling each with incomparable radiance.

To clarify this issue, consider the following example:

Diamond A: Measures 5 millimeters in width by 7 millimeters in length.
Diamond B: Also measures 5 millimeters in width, but only 5 millimeters in length.

Surface Areas:

Diamond A has a 35-square millimeter surface area, and should weigh over 1.00 carat.
Diamond B has a 25-square millimeter surface area, and should weigh about .60 carat.

The Issue:

Given the 10-square millimeter difference in the surface area, these two diamonds would need very different depths to optimize the beauty of each one. By focusing only on width, traditional depth percentages do not account for this difference.

The Solution:

The Original Radiant Cut measurements consider both length and width. We adjust our measurements of depth percentage, crown height, and pavilion depth to account for both the length and width of the diamond. This way, we ensure that the diamond is properly proportioned with respect to all of its dimensions.

ENSURING PROPER CARAT WEIGHT SPREAD

The interaction between carat weight and cut quality determines how big a diamond will appear. The size a diamond looks is not just a matter of carat weight.  When purchasing a diamond, people often mistake weight for visible size, because they assume if it weighs more it will look larger.  Without realizing it, they pay more for ordinary diamonds with higher weight.

However, a lighter, well cut diamond will actually create a larger more beautiful diamond.  A poorly cut diamond hides unnecessary weight throughout the diamond, causing it to appear smaller than it should.  For instance, a poorly cut diamond weighing 2.10 carats can actually appear smaller than a well cut diamond weighing 1.90 carats.  This is because of differences in the way the weight is distributed.

Our system for measuring visible size, known as "spread," makes certain that every Original Radiant Cut looks as large as it should appear. Our customers never pay for unnecessary carat weight that cannot be seen. We measure the "spread" of each Original Radiant Cut Diamond. Our measurements even account for the area lost as a result of the cut corners.

IDEAL MEASUREMENTS FOR THE ORIGINAL RADIANT CUT

The following measurements provide guidelines for the Original Radiant Cut. Hopefully by the time you've reached this section you've learned about how they are adjusted for the shape of radiants; measure the visible size of each diamond; and finally about how we visually evaluate every diamond before it can become an Original Radiant Cut.

While we are open to providing guidelines for ideal measurements, it's not simply the numbers that make a beautiful radiant cut. A diamond will not qualify as an Original Radiant Cut even if it fits within all of our proportion standards, if it fails to pass our visual examination.

This means it has to blaze with extraordinary life and look as large as it should appear in relation to its carat weight.  Every one of our radiant diamonds is worthy of Henry Grossbard's legacy.